Good Luck with That Fiver
November 20th, 2008
On September 1st, a new 5 euro coin came out. There must not be that many in circulation, because I never saw one until today when I received one after a transaction at the post office. As you can see, it’s shiny and silver and looks a little bit like a carnival token.
Who knew though that trying to get rid of that sucker would nearly cause an international incident? The cashier at our corner market took one look at it and asked me what it was. I tried to reassure her that it was real French money and even got the backing of the fellow behind me in the line. But she was spooked and went off to consult the manager. And of course, the line at the register started growing and the grumbling from the other customers started. After what seemed like ages, she came back smiling and rang up my one purchase, a two-liter bottle of milk. And of course, she made absolutely sure I knew that it wasn’t her fault. (Trust me, that’s a classic.) For the amount of trouble it caused, I’ll stick with the 5 euro bills.
Finding all the tools and foodstuffs necessary to replicate the traditional Thanksgiving meal is quite the challenge in Paris, but I’ve been pretty lucky to find almost everything I need. We had to special order a turkey since “turkey season” in Paris doesn’t start until mid-December (who knew?). I’m crossing my fingers that the big bird will be able to fit into our French-sized oven, which, it seems, is measured by volume and not linearly (because it’s important to know how much liquid can fit into an oven, apparently). I plan on subbing (or recreating) a few things as well because as much as I’d like the convenience of poultry seasoning and pumpkin spice, I’m not really so keen on paying 9 euros for a 0.65-ounce canister. If there’s a lesson to be learned by living far away from the (culinary) comforts of home, it’s definitely how to be innovative.
Première Dame Carla Bruni-Sarkozy charmed host Matt Lauer on the “Today” show this morning.
“Would it make sense to heat your house and leave the windows open?” recently claimed 3 Green members of parliament (Députés in French) who are currently trying to pass a law that would prohibit the use of terrace heaters in France. Needless to say that restaurants and cafés do not share the same opinion; they argue that since the smoking ban it’s the only way for them to keep smokers within their reach! Both parties use figures (CO2, watts, gas…) that do not match, of course. A very French debate… BTW, I took this photo rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, at the restaurant Chez Julien.
The building plan of Greek temples contains some interesting features. One of these is not in the building itself, but in the placement of the route to it. Placed in such a way that the first view is on the diagonal, the two lines of columns make the temple appear twice as big. Especially if the building is built in such a way that perspective is partly neutralised. At least, this is what I learned in an art history class I once took. Every time I see the Madeleine, I remember this lesson. This picture is, by the way, taken from the corner of Rue de Sèze.
If you want a comprehensive and detailed history of a city and would like to see how fashions and technology have evolved over the last century, ask a deltiologist. In Paris, the deltiologists, or postcard collectors, congregate around the Carré Marigny on the Avenue Gabriel behind the President’s residence. This piece of land just off the Champs Elysées was given to the city of Paris by a rich stamp collector in 1887 with the condition that the city allow the land to be used by the stamp collecting community. It branched out in the 20th century to include postcards and other collectibles, and is still lively when in use, which today is Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays.
About a 30 minute train ride from Paris, Versailles was home to Louis XIV in 1682 when unsatisfied with the accomodations at the Tuileries Palace (to me this seems unimaginable, but to each his own…) he moved his royal family here. Walking through the grand iron gates, I immediately got the impression I had wandered into the countryside. I wasn’t expecting Versailles to be quite so pastoral, but apparently Marie-Antoinette was a great lover of animals, as the rolling green hills and free-roaming cows clearly show! Damien and I wandered about the tree lined pathways complete with mud and fallen leaves alongside the daily joggers in for their morning run, until eventually we discovered the lake and fountains and rest of the splendors of the place. We stopped for un café et un chocolate chaud at a small café right on the lake where rowers were gliding past in their boats and old men walking their little dogs stopped to enjoy the morning. Up at the palace, a Jeff Koons exhibit was taking place, complete with large statues of balloon animals, a hanging inflatable lobster, and a replica of Michael Jackson and his monkey Bubbles forever immortalized in plastic.
This Thursday, November 20th, in tiny villages and big cities across France- as well as in many countries around the world- people will be celebrating the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau 2008. Beaujolais Nouveau is a very young wine made from Gamay grapes in the Beaujolais region of France. The grapes are picked earlier in the fall, fermented for just a few weeks, and then go on sale at the stroke of midnight on the third Thursday of each November, amid much hoopla and fanfare. Pick any neighborhood in Paris this Thursday, and you’re sure to find a celebration of some sort. Many cafe’s, brasseries and restaurants are offering special “Beaujolais Nouveau” menus- just look for the purple balloons, or follow the “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé” signs- there’s sure to be revelry at the end.
A friend’s band is playing a punk rock show. I want to murder everyone in sight and am breaking into random fits of crying but I must go to the show. We arrive early and as an hour turns into two, I realize I have not eaten dinner and I am about to lose it. I HAVE to eat. HAVE TO. As in, RIGHT NOW. We are down the street from the Monoprix at Pigalle so I make a beeline from the club to get myself a sandwich or five before I die. As I head up the sidewalk, I see two young guys approaching me and they move to block my way. Are you KIDDING ME? Nothing right now in this world could possibly get in between and my Monoprix sandwiches. NOTHING. I saw them coming and I think secretly inside I wanted them to mess with me because frankly, I am looking for a reason to go off. As they give me the up and down creepy look and say something in French, I get in the little one’s face and yell as loud as I can, “I WILL TAKE A HAMMER TO YOUR FUCKING FAAAACE, UNDERSTAND ME LITTLE MAN????” before pushing through them and continuing my beeline for tasteless ham on white bread with cheese.






